Tutorial: How-To Make Mechanical Fuel Pumps
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Tutorial: How-To Make Mechanical Fuel Pumps
So you guys, ever go to detail an engine, to add the piping from the mechanical fuel pump to the carburetor, EVEN fuel injection, and when ya go to look for the mechanical fuel pump the model has none on the engine? What ya do?
Here's the way I do it.
You have the engine:
See in the picture showing "pointing" there is no fuel pump on the model. SO, then you left high and dry, literally, OR you can add an in-line electrical fuel pump, I suppose, BUT thats not a good "detailing" of an engine, not to me at least. Or well at least not good detailing on Stock or "street rod" building.
Then, I went to look, this motor had none period, it wasn't broken off or not added at all. It simply did not have that detail made from the factory! SO, then John goes on a hunt to see what I have in my "scraps" (and yes, I have on HECK OF A PILE/Stash of scrap plastic, sheet, and shapes.)
I find I have some to use for making something.... Turns out, I have a bit of it, not only short scraps, but full lengths of stuff. You could even go as far to make this part from sprues! The best I can give ya is the following, look for some flat stock, and some round stock!
The round stock:
Turns out this was a pretty long section (over 4 inches long) that was out of my Evergreen Scale models styrene shape supply. Its .100" Rod.
You take that rod, and put a slice in it on an angle, like so:
Slice this about 3/4th across the "round" end, and about twice as long down the length of the diameter of the rod (hope that makes sense!) This slice will then be filled with the hanger. The hanger part/portion needs to be square, and able to be trimmed. As you'll see. I found what I needed in my scrap stash of really small sections of styrene plastic!
Granted, your best choice is to find something flat, rectangular to fit in the slice you cut into the rod, not extremely tight, but snug. Glue with your choice of capillary glues, (I prefer Ambroid Pro-Weld, but you can't get it anymore), SO my second choice is Tenax-7R. Allow to dry. at a 90 degree angle, remember the rod part has to "hang" and the flat rectangular part is the hanger that is mounted to the engine slightly above the crank center!
Now, you made that slice in the rod, the end of the rectangular part and down the side of the rod, has some "openings" needed filled in, trim the rectangular strip on the "top" add a small drop of CA (I prefer Krazy Glue) and a dash of baking Soda, file/sand to shape and thats done, then onto the slice down the side of the rod, do the SAME thing add CA to the slice opening, and a dash of baking soda file/sand to shape done!
See:
Now as I said, this was all done, and everything left "long". You have to go back and trim things to be in scale to the engine.
See the rod is trimmed, short, but looks about right, when you see it on the engine, you'll see what I mean by "looking right". Be sure to drill the hole(s) for the fuel line to the carburetor, or fuel injection, as well as the hole doe the supply from fuel tank! As once on the engine, its a bit more difficult to do at that time (My first one taught me that issue!). The rectangular part however leave LONG! It has to fit into a oblong hole made into the engine block to fit it and then be filled in around.
Here is the oblong hole in the block, notice the location, slightly above the crank and below where the fan pulley/cam is located.
Now, what it looks like in place, and have had filler added. I had to go back and repaint the engine block to match, and then go and paint the fuel pump.
And now painted:
Here's the way I do it.
You have the engine:
See in the picture showing "pointing" there is no fuel pump on the model. SO, then you left high and dry, literally, OR you can add an in-line electrical fuel pump, I suppose, BUT thats not a good "detailing" of an engine, not to me at least. Or well at least not good detailing on Stock or "street rod" building.
Then, I went to look, this motor had none period, it wasn't broken off or not added at all. It simply did not have that detail made from the factory! SO, then John goes on a hunt to see what I have in my "scraps" (and yes, I have on HECK OF A PILE/Stash of scrap plastic, sheet, and shapes.)
I find I have some to use for making something.... Turns out, I have a bit of it, not only short scraps, but full lengths of stuff. You could even go as far to make this part from sprues! The best I can give ya is the following, look for some flat stock, and some round stock!
The round stock:
Turns out this was a pretty long section (over 4 inches long) that was out of my Evergreen Scale models styrene shape supply. Its .100" Rod.
You take that rod, and put a slice in it on an angle, like so:
Slice this about 3/4th across the "round" end, and about twice as long down the length of the diameter of the rod (hope that makes sense!) This slice will then be filled with the hanger. The hanger part/portion needs to be square, and able to be trimmed. As you'll see. I found what I needed in my scrap stash of really small sections of styrene plastic!
Granted, your best choice is to find something flat, rectangular to fit in the slice you cut into the rod, not extremely tight, but snug. Glue with your choice of capillary glues, (I prefer Ambroid Pro-Weld, but you can't get it anymore), SO my second choice is Tenax-7R. Allow to dry. at a 90 degree angle, remember the rod part has to "hang" and the flat rectangular part is the hanger that is mounted to the engine slightly above the crank center!
Now, you made that slice in the rod, the end of the rectangular part and down the side of the rod, has some "openings" needed filled in, trim the rectangular strip on the "top" add a small drop of CA (I prefer Krazy Glue) and a dash of baking Soda, file/sand to shape and thats done, then onto the slice down the side of the rod, do the SAME thing add CA to the slice opening, and a dash of baking soda file/sand to shape done!
See:
Now as I said, this was all done, and everything left "long". You have to go back and trim things to be in scale to the engine.
See the rod is trimmed, short, but looks about right, when you see it on the engine, you'll see what I mean by "looking right". Be sure to drill the hole(s) for the fuel line to the carburetor, or fuel injection, as well as the hole doe the supply from fuel tank! As once on the engine, its a bit more difficult to do at that time (My first one taught me that issue!). The rectangular part however leave LONG! It has to fit into a oblong hole made into the engine block to fit it and then be filled in around.
Here is the oblong hole in the block, notice the location, slightly above the crank and below where the fan pulley/cam is located.
Now, what it looks like in place, and have had filler added. I had to go back and repaint the engine block to match, and then go and paint the fuel pump.
And now painted:
528-Hemi- Professionnel
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Re: Tutorial: How-To Make Mechanical Fuel Pumps
Then, I mentioned to drill the holes for the supply and carburetor fuel lines. Here they are:
Then, I went ahead and made the fuel line from the pump, to the carburetor.
I bent my own line, and made my own fuel filter "in-line", and added it and then went back and painted the line a aluminum color, as the real counterpart would have been.
Difficult to give a "shopping" list when most of this was "scraps" I had laying around.
The rod is Evergreen Scale Models Styrene plastic Rod thats .100 inch in diameter. The rectangular stuff, is scraps, chosen by its size, to match that of the engine in 1/25th scale!
Hope this helps! Enjoy....
Then, I went ahead and made the fuel line from the pump, to the carburetor.
I bent my own line, and made my own fuel filter "in-line", and added it and then went back and painted the line a aluminum color, as the real counterpart would have been.
Difficult to give a "shopping" list when most of this was "scraps" I had laying around.
The rod is Evergreen Scale Models Styrene plastic Rod thats .100 inch in diameter. The rectangular stuff, is scraps, chosen by its size, to match that of the engine in 1/25th scale!
Hope this helps! Enjoy....
528-Hemi- Professionnel
- Messages : 463
Date d'inscription : 21/08/2016
Age : 46
Localisation : New Hampshire, USA
Emploi/loisirs : Retired, Model Railroading, Model Cars, Model Trucks, REAL Cars & Trucks, Restoring OLD car & Truck parts unusable, repurposed.
Humeur : Good
Re: Tutorial: How-To Make Mechanical Fuel Pumps
great tutos
thanks John
A+
franck
thanks John
A+
franck
roadrunner- Admin
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Re: Tutorial: How-To Make Mechanical Fuel Pumps
Thank Franck! I will at times have these from time to time.... I just have to think about it when I'm working on something!
528-Hemi- Professionnel
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Re: Tutorial: How-To Make Mechanical Fuel Pumps
no problem
this is the same for us too
generaly, i post my tutos in my building threads
A+
franck
this is the same for us too
generaly, i post my tutos in my building threads
A+
franck
roadrunner- Admin
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Re: Tutorial: How-To Make Mechanical Fuel Pumps
top class job!!!
Le 2tsch- Expert
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Re: Tutorial: How-To Make Mechanical Fuel Pumps
Thanks Le 2tsch!
Franck, yeah, I would do the same BUT my "builds get L-O-N-G winded, so I take that and cut part out, (leaving it in the build) but sectioning that "part" to make a Tutorial, as you see here this one is a Dodge LA 318 engine thats going into a '68 Dodge Dart I'm building thats a car my Dad once owned! So.....
You'll see as I add to the site!
Franck, yeah, I would do the same BUT my "builds get L-O-N-G winded, so I take that and cut part out, (leaving it in the build) but sectioning that "part" to make a Tutorial, as you see here this one is a Dodge LA 318 engine thats going into a '68 Dodge Dart I'm building thats a car my Dad once owned! So.....
You'll see as I add to the site!
528-Hemi- Professionnel
- Messages : 463
Date d'inscription : 21/08/2016
Age : 46
Localisation : New Hampshire, USA
Emploi/loisirs : Retired, Model Railroading, Model Cars, Model Trucks, REAL Cars & Trucks, Restoring OLD car & Truck parts unusable, repurposed.
Humeur : Good
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